{"id":4408,"date":"2020-06-26T22:09:15","date_gmt":"2020-06-27T02:09:15","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/recipephany.com\/?p=4408"},"modified":"2023-08-08T11:43:06","modified_gmt":"2023-08-08T15:43:06","slug":"classic-ragu-bolognese-redux-do-chicken-livers-deliver","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/recipephany.com\/?p=4408","title":{"rendered":"Classic Rag\u00f9 Bolognese Redux: Do Chicken Livers Deliver?"},"content":{"rendered":"

A comment from an Italian cooking teacher about our <\/em>Classic Rag\u00f9 alla Bolognese from Ada Boni<\/a> got us thinking about what makes a bolognese a bolognese. In particular, are there chicken livers in its DNA? So we put Recipephany’s Research and Testing Institute to work. Here’s what we learned from our deep dive into the evolution of one of the world\u2019s favorite meat sauces.\"\"<\/a>
\n<\/em><\/p>\n

A genetic analysis of bolongese rag\u00f9\u2019s ancestry brings you immediately to Pellegrino Artusi\u2019s 1891 seminal cookbook, Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well<\/em>. The meats Artusi favored for his \u201cMaccheroni Alla Bolognese\u201d (which is curiously tomato-free in a book with many tomato sauces) were simply veal and pancetta. But he also pushed chicken livers. \u201cThe sauce can be made even tastier adding small pieces of dried mushroom, a few truffle slices, or a chicken liver cooked with the meat and cut into tiny chunks,\u201d he wrote.<\/p>\n

Chicken liver is the Clark Kent of ingredients\u2014adding super depth of flavor and richness to the meat sauce without revealing its true identity.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

Artusi\u2019s bolognese influenced our favorite Italian cookbook author, Ada Boni. She\u2019s famous for Il Talismano della Felicit\u00e0<\/em>, (Talisman of <\/em>Happiness, <\/em>or simply The Talisman<\/em>) (1928), which was Italy\u2019s standard cookbook for decades.<\/p>\n

In The Talisman<\/em>, Boni built on Artusi\u2019s recipe, adding beef and pork to the veal and pancetta. To crank up the meaty taste, she included not one, but two chicken livers. And there\u2019s tomato paste, for even more umami.<\/p>\n

Now here\u2019s where evolution gets interesting.<\/p>\n

Boni updated many of her recipes in Italian Regional Cooking<\/em> (1969), our go-to Italian cooking reference and source of the Classic Rag\u00f9 alla Bolognese. In this version, she added flavor-boosting sausage to the pancetta, beef and pork, and eliminated veal. Here she included two or three chicken livers to infuse even more of their magic into the rag\u00f9.<\/p>\n

But she added a qualifier: she marked chicken livers as \u201coptional.\u201d Was this a hint that they were no longer \u201cde rigueur\u201d (or should we say, \u201cde rag\u00f9\u201d)?<\/p>\n

Chicken livers called into question
\n<\/span><\/strong>Maribel Agullo, who heads the Taste of Italy<\/a> cooking school in Bologna, contacted Recipephany to say that Italians no longer use chicken livers in their bolognese. She cited the official recipe for Rag\u00f9 Alla Bolognese (registered with Bologna\u2019s Chamber of Commerce in 1982), which leaves them out.<\/p>\n

She explained that chicken livers were popular at a time when no part of the chicken went to waste, particularly around World War II when food was scarce. Livers, giblets and even scraps of intestines went into the meat sauce. Butcher shops prominently displayed them. Her husband\u2019s grandmother, of that generation, added livers to her rag\u00f9. The tide shifted well over 20 years ago, she reported, when demand for chicken livers fell off and butcher shops stopped featuring them (although they are still available if you ask). In Bologna, she said, nobody adds chicken livers to their rag\u00f9 anymore.<\/p>\n

The chicken liver work-around
\n<\/span><\/strong>So can we get that signature meaty taste we\u2019ve come to love without chicken livers? Maribel kindly offered a strategy.<\/p>\n

\u201cI believe that the use of the livers helps create that depth of flavor when you cook the vegetables first,\u201d she wrote us. \u201cTry cooking the meat first with no condiments\u2014just the meat with some fats (butter, oil) and once you\u2019ve had the Maillard effect then add the veggies, cook them for a bit and proceed with the recipe.\u201d<\/p>\n

Two rag\u00f9s, head-to-head
\n<\/span><\/strong>Would this do the trick? Recipephany tested two rag\u00f9s: Maribel\u2019s work-around without livers, and Ada Boni\u2019s Classic Rag\u00f9 alla Bolognese<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Maribel\u2019s technique of first browning the meat absolutely intensified the flavor. I was hit by a bold, meaty taste\u2014very aggressive. The fat separated out a bit during the long saut\u00e9ing, though, and it tended to coat the pasta. The aromatics could have also used a little more time to soften. Yet this was a phenomenal rag\u00f9, one I’d be thrilled to get at a restaurant.\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

But when I tasted Ada Boni\u2019s sauce, the scientific method flew out the window. As I savored her soft, meaty rag\u00f9, my bias arrived and pulled up a chair. Like Artusi, I prefer my ragu \u201ceven tastier.\u201d If I can find chicken livers to add to the sauce, why should I give them up?<\/p>\n

Chicken livers deliver
\n<\/span><\/strong>So now, I must admit to remaining old-school, despite the trend in Italy. And so do others. I recently met a woman at the Italian meats counter in Russo\u2019s Market in Waltham, Massachusetts. She and her Italian husband had lived in Emilia Romagna for over 12 years. When I mentioned bolognese sauce, she had just two words of advice: \u201cChicken Livers.\u201d She said, \u201cMy husband\u2019s family always puts chicken livers into their bolognese. It\u2019s what makes it so meaty tasting.\u201d<\/p>\n

The legacy
\n<\/span><\/strong>Pellegrino Artusi\u2019s bolognese can be viewed as both a vestige of its times and an inspiration for future sauces. Like our culture and our genes, bolognese rag\u00f9 has mutated, and will continue to do so, from area to area, generation to generation.<\/p>\n

And as more people stumble upon Artusi\u2019s\u2014and Ada Boni\u2019s\u2014recipes, who knows how many new chefs might add chicken livers to their rag\u00f9.<\/p>\n

Of course, not everyone embraces the rich, gamey flavor and soft texture of chicken livers. But as meats go, they are good for you\u2014rich in iron, B vitamins, and even eye-healthy vitamin A. You don\u2019t have to invest in a pound of chicken livers to get what you need for the sauce. Every once in a while, save the liver from a whole chicken and freeze it. Even one liver is enough to enrich the sauce.<\/p>\n

So click below for that classic recipe from Ada Boni. Add that age-old secret ingredient and see if it takes you back to the origin of this sauce. Find out what helped make Artusi\u2019s sauce all the rage. Maybe you\u2019ll agree with us that it makes your rag\u00f9 \u201ceven tastier.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Special thanks to Taste of Italy<\/a>‘s Maribel Agullo, Recipephany\u2019s Special Correspondent in Bologna, for her inspiration, expert advice and contributions to this article. Watch her Taste of Italy YouTube Channel<\/a> and learn her secrets to authentic Italian cooking and pasta making.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

A comment from an Italian cooking teacher about our Classic Rag\u00f9 alla Bolognese from Ada Boni got us thinking about what makes a bolognese a bolognese. In particular, are there chicken livers in its DNA? So we put Recipephany’s Research and Testing Institute to work. Here’s what we learned from our deep dive into the evolution of one of the world\u2019s favorite meat sauces. A genetic analysis of bolongese rag\u00f9\u2019s ancestry brings you immediately to Pellegrino Artusi\u2019s 1891 seminal cookbook, Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well. The meats Artusi favored for his \u201cMaccheroni Alla Bolognese\u201d (which is curiously tomato-free in a book with many tomato sauces) were simply veal and pancetta. But he also pushed chicken livers. \u201cThe sauce can be made even tastier adding small pieces of dried mushroom, a few truffle slices, or a chicken liver cooked with the meat and cut into tiny chunks,\u201d he wrote. Chicken liver is the Clark Kent of ingredients\u2014adding super depth of flavor and richness to the meat sauce without revealing its true identity. Artusi\u2019s bolognese influenced our favorite Italian cookbook author, Ada Boni. She\u2019s famous for Il Talismano della Felicit\u00e0, (Talisman of Happiness, or simply The Talisman) (1928), which was Italy\u2019s standard cookbook for decades. In The Talisman, Boni built on Artusi\u2019s recipe, adding beef and pork to the veal and pancetta. To crank up the meaty taste, she included not one, but two chicken livers. And there\u2019s tomato paste, for even more umami. Now here\u2019s where evolution gets interesting. Boni updated many of her recipes in Italian Regional Cooking (1969), our go-to Italian cooking reference and source of the Classic Rag\u00f9 alla Bolognese. In this version, she added flavor-boosting sausage to the pancetta, beef and pork, and eliminated veal. Here she included two or three chicken livers to infuse even more of their magic into the rag\u00f9. But she added a qualifier: she marked chicken livers as \u201coptional.\u201d Was this a hint that they were no longer \u201cde rigueur\u201d (or should we say, \u201cde rag\u00f9\u201d)? Chicken livers called into question Maribel Agullo, who heads the Taste of Italy cooking school in Bologna, contacted Recipephany to say that Italians no longer use chicken livers in their bolognese. She cited the official recipe for Rag\u00f9 Alla Bolognese (registered with Bologna\u2019s Chamber of Commerce in 1982), which leaves them out. She explained that chicken livers were popular at a time when no part of the chicken went to waste, particularly around World War II when food was scarce. Livers, giblets and even scraps of intestines went into the meat sauce. Butcher shops prominently displayed them. Her husband\u2019s grandmother, of that generation, added livers to her rag\u00f9. The tide shifted well over 20 years ago, she reported, when demand for chicken livers fell off and butcher shops stopped featuring them (although they are still available if you ask). In Bologna, she said, nobody adds chicken livers to their rag\u00f9 anymore. The chicken liver work-around So can we get that signature meaty taste we\u2019ve come to love without chicken livers? Maribel kindly offered a strategy. \u201cI believe that the use of the livers helps create that depth of flavor when you cook the vegetables first,\u201d she wrote us. \u201cTry cooking the meat first with no condiments\u2014just the meat with some fats (butter, oil) and once you\u2019ve had the Maillard effect then add the veggies, cook them for a bit and proceed with the recipe.\u201d Two rag\u00f9s, head-to-head Would this do the trick? Recipephany tested two rag\u00f9s: Maribel\u2019s work-around without livers, and Ada Boni\u2019s Classic Rag\u00f9 alla Bolognese. Maribel\u2019s technique of first browning the meat absolutely intensified the flavor. I was hit by a bold, meaty taste\u2014very aggressive. The fat separated out a bit during the long saut\u00e9ing, though, and it tended to coat the pasta. The aromatics could have also used a little more time to soften. Yet this was a phenomenal rag\u00f9, one I’d be thrilled to get at a restaurant. But when I tasted Ada Boni\u2019s sauce, the scientific method flew out the window. As I savored her soft, meaty rag\u00f9, my bias arrived and pulled up a chair. Like Artusi, I prefer my ragu \u201ceven tastier.\u201d If I can find chicken livers to add to the sauce, why should I give them up? Chicken livers deliver So now, I must admit to remaining old-school, despite the trend in Italy. And so do others. I recently met a woman at the Italian meats counter in Russo\u2019s Market in Waltham, Massachusetts. She and her Italian husband had lived in Emilia Romagna for over 12 years. When I mentioned bolognese sauce, she had just two words of advice: \u201cChicken Livers.\u201d She said, \u201cMy husband\u2019s family always puts chicken livers into their bolognese. It\u2019s what makes it so meaty tasting.\u201d The legacy Pellegrino Artusi\u2019s bolognese can be viewed as both a vestige of its times and an inspiration for future sauces. Like our culture and our genes, bolognese rag\u00f9 has mutated, and will continue to do so, from area to area, generation to generation. And as more people stumble upon Artusi\u2019s\u2014and Ada Boni\u2019s\u2014recipes, who knows how many new chefs might add chicken livers to their rag\u00f9. Of course, not everyone embraces the rich, gamey flavor and soft texture of chicken livers. But as meats go, they are good for you\u2014rich in iron, B vitamins, and even eye-healthy vitamin A. You don\u2019t have to invest in a pound of chicken livers to get what you need for the sauce. Every once in a while, save the liver from a whole chicken and freeze it. Even one liver is enough to enrich the sauce. So click below for that classic recipe from Ada Boni. Add that age-old secret ingredient and see if it takes you back to the origin of this sauce. Find out what helped make Artusi\u2019s sauce all the rage. Maybe you\u2019ll agree with us that it makes your rag\u00f9 \u201ceven tastier.\u201d Special thanks to Taste of Italy‘s Maribel Agullo, Recipephany\u2019s Special Correspondent in Bologna, for her inspiration, expert advice and contributions to this article. Watch her Taste of Italy YouTube Channel and learn her secrets to authentic Italian cooking and pasta making.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4438,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[146,13,56,332,12,644,4],"tags":[344,584,582,583,581],"class_list":["post-4408","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-beef","category-chicken","category-ingredient","category-italian","category-main-dish","category-pasta","category-techniquesingredients","tag-ada-boni-bolognese-sauce","tag-bolognese-ragu","tag-chicken-livers","tag-chicken-livers-in-bolognese-sauce","tag-maribel-agullo"],"yoast_head":"\nClassic Rag\u00f9 Bolognese Redux: Do Chicken Livers Deliver? - Recipephany<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"You'll love the deep meaty flavor that chicken livers bring to this classic Bolognese sauce.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/recipephany.com\/?p=4408\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Classic Rag\u00f9 Bolognese Redux: Do Chicken Livers Deliver? 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